How To Take Amazing Close-Up Flower Photos

How To Take Amazing Close-Up Flower Photos

Editor's note: My Lightroom Classic articles have moved to my new website Mastering Lightroom. Visit the store and get 20% off any ebook or ebook bundle with the code ml20 (valid until midnight October 21). Thanks for reading, Andrew.

Flowers are photogenic. Making amazing close-up flower photos is straightforward with the right techniques and equipment. But it can get confusing, especially if you don’t know the difference between an extension tube and a macro lens! So I’ve put together some tips to help you select the right gear and create your own beautiful close-up photos of flowers.

1. See how close you can get with the lenses that you already own

The reality is that you need a macro lens or extension tube to get really creative with close-up photos of flowers (more on both of those in a bit). But at the same time you may be surprised just how close you can get with the (non-macro) lenses you already own.

Choose a lens to test. An 18-55mm kit lens is a good start. A prime 35mm lens (APS-C), 25mm lens (Micro Four-thirds) or 50mm lens (full-frame) is even better.

Set your lens to manual focus, move the focusing ring to the minimum focusing distance, then, looking through the viewfinder, move the camera close to a flower until it’s in focus. That’s the closest you can get with this particular lens without any help.

The result depends on the specification of your lens. It helps if you’re taking photos of big flowers rather than small ones.

Below you can see the result of this test when I tried it with my 35mm lens (on an APS-C camera) set to its minimum focusing distance of 30 centimeters.

Close-up photos of flowers

As you can see you can be creative at this magnification. But if you want to get closer and take photos like this one (taken with the same 35mm lens and an extension tube), you need extra equipment.

Flower photo taken with extension tube

2. Use an extension tube for close-up flower photos

An extension tube fits between your lens and the camera and allows you to get closer to your subject. They are more effective with shorter focal lengths. You’ll get the best results by using them with a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera (or 35mm on APS-C, or 25mm on Micro Four-thirds).

Extension tubes are relatively inexpensive, small and easy to carry. You can put one in your camera bag just in case.

Note: Avoid cheap extension lenses sold on websites like eBay that don’t have an electronic connection. While they are inexpensive, you won’t be able to stop down unless you’re using an older lens with a manual aperture ring.

Another advantage of an extension tube is that you can use it with different lenses. For example, I made this flower photo using a 16mm extension tube with my 35mm lens.

Close-up flower photo taken with extension tube

I made this one using the same extension tube on my Lensbaby Edge 50 lens.

Close-up flower photo taken with extension tube and Lensbaby Edge 50 lens

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3. Buy a macro lens for close-up flower photos

If you’re really keen on flower photography then a macro lens is easier to use than an extension tube. It gives you more magnification and is optimized to give sharp images at close focusing distances.

Some macro lenses are expensive, but others less so. For example, I could buy the Fujifilm 80mm macro lens for around $1200. It’s a high quality autofocus macro lens with image stabilization.

But instead I bought the Samyang 100mm f2.8 macro lens for (at UK prices) a third of the price. It’s a manual focus lens but I can live with that. Here are a couple of close-up flower photos I made with it.

Close-up flower photo taken with macro lens

Flower photo taken with 100mm macro lens

Extra tip: Some macro lenses only have half-size magnification (these are called 1:2 macro lenses). For the best results you need a macro lens with life-size magnification (called a 1:1 macro lens).

If you use a macro lens at its minimum focusing distance you’ll be so close to your flowers that you’ll need a tripod and focusing rail for the best results. This is fun if you want to try it, but it adds to the expense and the amount of gear you need to carry.

But remember you don’t have to get that close if you don’t want to. It’s usually only necessary with the tiniest of flowers. The versatility of macro lenses gives you the choice. You can back off a bit, and take photos hand-holding the camera.

4. Composition and photos of flowers

Once you’ve got the gear side of close-up flower photography figured out you need to concentrate on composition. This is one of the easiest parts of flower photography. When you get this close to your subject it doesn’t matter what aperture you’re using, the background goes out of focus. As long as you focus accurately on the flower it’s difficult not to make good photos!

Use the shade

When you use shoot in direct sunlight it’s inevitable that you’ll end up with burned out highlights, deep shadows and washed out colors.

But shoot in shade and it’s a completely different story. Colors are deep and saturated. Get the exposure right and you won’t get overexposed highlights or deep shadows.

But more importantly the quality of light in the shade is beautiful. It helps you capture delicate textures and saturated colors.

You can see the difference in these two photos of the same flower.

Flower photos taken in sun and shade

Extra tip: If the flower you want to photograph isn’t in shade, position yourself between the flower and the sun and use your shadow. Make sure the background is shaded to avoid overexposed highlights.

Pay attention to the background

Most flowers have green leaves which give you a beautiful green background. The aperture you select determines the sharpness of the background. Use a wide aperture to throw it completely out of focus, or a smaller one to make it sharper.

For example, I made this photo using an aperture of f1.8.

Flower photo made with aperture of f1.8

There might be out of focus flowers in the background. Pay attention to them and think about where they are located in the frame. Make sure they don’t become distractions.

You can see how this works in the photo below.

Photo of two flowers

More on aperture and close-up flower photos

Don’t be afraid to experiment with aperture settings to see what difference they make to the result. If you’re using a prime lens you can use the largest aperture setting to create photos with ultra-narrow depth of field, like this (taken with at f1.8 with an 85mm lens).

Close-up flower photo taken at f1.8 aperture

But don’t forget to take photos with the aperture stopped down. You’ll get more of the flower in focus – not every flower photo needs the full arty bokeh treatment!

Here’s another photo of the same flower taken with the aperture set to f4.

Close-up flower photo taken at f4 aperture

Work the subject

The key to getting good close-up photos of flowers is to move around. This is easy if you’re hand-holding the camera. A tiny shift in position changes the composition dramatically. You can also try moving in closer (if you can) or further back to see what difference it makes.

These two photos of the same flower show the difference that changing your point of view makes to the composition.

Close-up flower photo

Close-up flower photo

Final flower photo tip

Don’t forget that flowers are static subjects and you have the time to take as many photos as you want to get it right. Patience is key – experiment with composition, try different viewpoints and pay attention to the background. You’ll be rewarded with some amazing photos.

Further reading

Mastering Lenses ebook

Learn how to take beautiful photos using any lens with our popular ebook Mastering Lenses. The lens buying guide alone could save you hundreds of dollars on your next lens purchase!


Mastering Lenses ebook

About Andrew S. Gibson

Andrew S. Gibson is a writer, publisher, traveler, workshop leader and photographer based in the UK. He started writing about photography while traveling in Bolivia, and has been published in many prestigious photography magazines including EOS magazine, where he worked as a Writer and Technical Editor for two years. He is inspired by meeting new people, seeing new places and having new experiences. Check out his photography ebooks here.


  1. Your articles are all so informative and interesting that I find myself spending hours reading them. GOT TO GET MY CAMERA OUT AND DO THEM!

  2. Excellent article Andrew. I normally shoot landscapes and have just started in the world of macro photography. I have the Fujinon XF 80mm F/2.8 and I am getting some very interesting shots. This article was perfectly timed as flowers are in full bloom here in Surrey, BC, Canada.
    Thanks for the great articles and tips!

  3. You can also buy some close up lenses like the Raynox lenses that just clip on to the front of your lenses. I use them with my bridge camera where extension tubes and macro lenses can’t be used.

  4. Hi Andrew
    Thank you for the interesting overview on close ups.
    After setting the aperture to suit the choice of spread of in focus flowers, I like to set the shutter speed at 1/250 or more as I do not have image stabilisation. This means leaving the lighting balance relying on auto ISO speed which I can safely ramp up to 1600 plus on my camera but am I compromising the sharpness when I should be opening up the aperture instead of relying on ISO?
    I have choice of an APS-C 18 mm prime or wide 11-25 zoom.
    This applies as much to general photography so is my approach the correct one?

    1. Author

      Hi David, you’re not compromising on sharpness by using higher ISO settings. You should set the aperture which gives the depth of field you want to see in the photo. You’ve done the correct thing with the shutter speed. Then let the ISO take care of itself. The high ISO performance of modern cameras is so good that it’s not the concern it used to be with film or early digital cameras. It’s true that, depending on which camera you have, you’ll start to lose a little definition and detail at around ISO 3200 or higher. But unless you’re stopping down to f11 or so you shouldn’t need such a high ISO in daylight outdoors. Hope that helps.

  5. I use an old 28 to 80mm lense with a eight dollar reversing ring. Extremely close macro photos at 28mm. You have to set up your camera manually and the depth of field is very very narrow. Also a tripod is Nessary at 28mm. The photos are insanely close. If you zoom out in this case to 80mm it’s easier with the dog. Patience is the key at 28mm. Cheap easy way to start macro photography.

    1. Author

      Hi Bob, you’ll get great magnification with that set up. In fact, you turn the lens into a high-powered close-up lens when you reverse it.

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